This page is about using a AUSTRAINS “C” mech to repower a POWERLINE “G”.
It was done in three stages:
- Initial work
- Finishing one loco off
- Vic Hobby Centre Method, starting the second loco.
This article is based on my postings to aus.rails.models. My “G” had died, so I took the opportunity to start this conversion. I have not gotten really far, but I have made all the big “cuts” .
MY guide was the AMRM article found in October 1998 , issue 212 vol 18 no 11.
Here are a few photos of the progress so far.
Since I originally took these initial photos and wrote this page I have finished this project (what, over a year! yes yes, I know)
The results are in Stage 2 & 3 for you to see !
Stage 1 Initial Work
Stage 2
I have finally finished this model.
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Call me different but I didn’t want to remove the coupler in order to remove the body, so I made the bracket so I screw either side. I used brass shapes etc and soldered two nuts onto one piece, then glued them into the top part of the headstock assembly (as the photo in stage 1 shows). |
I had to remove even more of the cast weight from the top part in order to get it to fit. That wasn’t a worry as I can always put more weight on the sides if needed. There is still plenty of space for a DCC decoder as well. |
The fuel tank is glued to the chassis. The loco runs very well and has already been used on my EMRC club layout “Murranbilla” at two recent exhibitions.
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Victorian Hobby Centre Method
With success of the first I wanted to do a second. Then I went to the 2002 Corio Model Railway Exhibition, and noticed a FAR BETTER way of re-powering a “G”.
It was shown by the friendly Eric from the Victorian Hobby Centre. I were so impressed I had to try it – and are amazed at to the simplicity. So, this method belongs to Eric, and thank you for sharing it with us !
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The VHC method was to use the existing “G” chassis, and transplant the motor and bogies from Austrain into it. Really quite simple. You make some mounts (mine are brass), and glue them where the original Powerline motors swivelled. Make sure the height places your coupler at the correct height. You may get away with not removing your coupler at all ! Then time to mount the motor. Eric put metal in the fuel tank before attaching the motor – differed here and used a Sagami motor. I put down Plastic, so my version is not as heavy. |
Then two drive shafts are made – another revelation that I could have used 6 years ago. All you need is brass rod of two thicknesses, one to be the drive-shaft, ‘the other the drive pins. I used a motor tool to slot the drive-shaft (cut to the length you wanted). Then I soldered the thinner wire into it. When cool I then trimmed it with wire cutters. Next was to file the area with needle files to ensure it went in and turned in the Austrains bogie housing.
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I did add extra weight, but placing three steel bars in the insides, with electrical tape insulating them, just in case. There is still plenty of space for a DCC decoder as well.
To attach the body to the chassis, I glued in some styrene into two corners of the cab, then drilled and screwed through just behind the pilots.
The loco runs very well and has already been used on my EMRC club layout “Murranbilla” at two recent exhibitions. Due to using the Sagami motor, it does not run well with my other Austrain “G” or “C”. So, shall I re-power it as well ?
I know Eric at the Victorian Hobby Center occasionally sells converted model like what I have shown here, but with extra detail added as well.
I wonder if this would work for an 81 class ???
Excellent conversion. Like the way you used some brass plate pieces & the extra weight added.